The taco tier, at every hour: El Califa de León (the stand that won — then lost — its Michelin star; the gaonera and the queue don't care), Taquería Orinoco (al pastor until 3:30am), El Vilsito (mechanic shop by day, pastor temple by night). Bars to close: Handshake — currently the best bar in the world on the official list — then Salón Rosetta above Reygadas' mansion, Tlécan for agave in Roma.

Where to stay — Casa Polanco: two Michelin Keys; a 1940s Spanish Revival mansion done quietly. Four Seasons CDMX: the Reforma hacienda courtyard; list perennial. Círculo Mexicano (Centro): Grupo Habita's Shaker-minimal rooms with a rooftop staring at the cathedral. Octavia Casa (Condesa): one Key; fashion-label minimalism. La Valise (Roma): one Key, three suites, beds that roll onto the terrace. Condesa DF: the scene-y classic that started it all.

When to go — November–April is the dry prime; late February–March adds the jacarandas — purple streets for free. Rainy season (May–October) means clear mornings and a punctual 4–7pm downpour; plan museums accordingly. Art Week (early February) and Día de Muertos spike hotels. Altitude is real: 7,350 feet — hydrate, and respect the mezcal on night one.

The practical part — Uber/DiDi everywhere, never street hails; keep the phone off the curb; Centro empties late — leave with it. The safety math in visitor neighborhoods (Roma, Condesa, Polanco, Coyoacán) resembles any large US city: petty theft, not violence, is the realistic risk. Book in this order: Pujol (3 months) → Casa Barragán (4–6 weeks) → Casa Azul (2–4 weeks) → Contramar (1 month) → flights around what you got.